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About Marjorie

  • Birthday July 9

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  1. My sis and i were just talking about this a few days ago. Historic flooding (some places higher than any time since 1895, when they started keeping records), mudslides in Minneapolis, roads washed away in some areas of southern MN, farmland under water .... how will this affect the crops? And every few hours my phone goes off with either a flood or flash flood warning, getting extended.
  2. One thing I've never understood is how freezing is supposed to actually work. I live currently and grew up in an extremely cold climate (northern Minnesota/Wisconsin) and yet we still have insects in the spring/summer/fall, even with hard, hard freezes. I seriously doubt all the insects are migrating up from the south every single year. I know some say they hibernate in the ground and that keeps them safe. Not buying that, either. This year the frost extended down 8 feet in some areas, enough to burst city water pipes that were buried that deep to avoid the normal frost level of 6 feet below ground. Insects can survive a lot. Back when I first started, I froze corn and wheat for 2 solid weeks in a deep freeze, then packed in buckets. Still had insects. The only ones I didn't get insects in were those packed with CO2 in buckets (didn't know about mylar and O2 absorbers at that time). I just will no longer rely on freezing to keep grain bug-free.
  3. Marjorie

    Valley Fever

    Yes, it is a concern, but it's not necessarily (rarely) fatal. In humans, it affects the lungs, like a bad cough or cold. Then we usually get over it and are fine. Very rarely a human will need further treatment or even hospitalization. Most people don't even know that they had it. For dogs, it doesn't affect (just) the lungs but the bones. It is the biggest cause of lameness in the area. That's how we found out our dog had it -- he had a growing lump on his paw, then wouldn't put any pressure on it. We took him in and that's what the vet said it was. He's been on fluconazole for several years now. He had no pulmonary symptoms at all, no cough, nothing. Just the lameness and general lethargy. Many dogs only require a few months of treatment, some require lifelong treatment. Inside dogs are less likely to get it than outside dogs, because it is a spore in the dust. Ours was an outside dog in the desert (pretty much dirt) for several years until he was diagnosed, at which point we brought him inside. Not all dogs get it. One issue though is that if they do, only vets in the Southwest know how to treat and manage it. My vet up here in Wisconsin was perfectly willing to prescribe whatever I needed and order any tests that I needed to manage it, but had no idea what to do on her own. My vet in AZ did tell me that when we moved and got one up here, to feel free to have the vet up here call her down there for treatment advise. Here's a link: https://www.vfce.arizona.edu/ValleyFeverInPets/Default.aspx
  4. I lived for 10 years outside Phoenix, moved away a year and a half ago, and will be moving back shortly. Gardening there is different than gardening in most of the US. I had mixed results with raised beds. When I had a soaker hose set up, I had a pretty good harvest. When I didn't, I didn't. They don't hold the water as well as basins. Most parts of the country you want water to drain away easily. In the desert, you want to conserve as much water as possible. I did use Mel's Mix (the Square Foot Gardening recipe) so had good drainage. A few things to keep in mind -- there are 2 short growing seasons rather than one longer growings season, at least for most plants. Melons and squash can go over the summer, but most plants will die in the heat. The summer in Phoenix is like the rest of the country's winter -- it's the barren season. Tomatoes won't set fruit because it doesn't drop low enough at night and the daytime temps are too high and kill the pollen. You'll be lucky to get fruit in July. Plants that are labeled "full sun" don't mean full sun in Phoenix. Full sun means 8 hours of sunlight per day, not 12-15 hours of scorching sunlight per day. You have to provide some shade, whether it's by trees, walls, vines, or shade cloth. Some native plants won't need it, but if you're going to grow conventional garden plants, they will. You also need to mulch and mulch well, because the hot dry air sucks the water right out of the soil. Native gardeners planted in basins and used rocks as mulch. When looking for varieties, you want to look for not only drought and heat tolerant, but also fast maturing. the best place to find desert adapted, drought and heat tolerant varieties is from Native Seeds/SEARCH out of Tucson. http://www.nativeseeds.org/ Also, check out the Urban Farm if you haven't already. They do classes on desert gardening (I took a few from them) http://www.urbanfarm.org/events . He grows a *lot* of food on his 1/4 acre lot in Phoenix proper. Also, you can see his planting calendar on the website, which is slightly different from the UofA extension one.
  5. I am Marjorie, and I am an RN, but not the Marjorie RN who wrote the article
  6. Found it http://www.survivalschool.us/wp-content/uploads/How-to-make-your-own-dressings-and-bandages...By-Marjorie-Bur.pdf
  7. Have you tried seeds from Native Seeds/SEARCH? That's where I got mine from when we lived outside Phoenix (we're moving back in a few months!) They carry seeds for desert adapted food plants, ones that were raised before electricity and deep wells.
  8. We are on GAPS to heal our guts, especially for my two kids (one teen and one toddler). It's also helped us so that we're not as sensitive to gluten as we were in the past. GAPS is a starch free, nutrient dense diet. It's like a cross between Weston Price traditional foods and Primal. Our biggest issue has been long term storage, because that generally concentrates on grains and GAPS is grain-free. Even if we weren't GAPS, we are all sensitive to wheat so that throw a wrench in the works. To get around this, I buy only gluten-free or very low gluten grains. I also have a good stock of millet. It's the most easily digested, and is the first grain reintroduced when transitioning off of GAPS. I figure if we ever are in a long-term situation where we are going into our stores, we'll start with the millet and then slowly introduce the other grains, fermenting or sprouting what we can to make it as easily digestible as possible. The other things haven't been as much of an issue. We buy local humanely raised beef by the 1/4 from a co-worker of dh's (not totally grass-fed, but pastured and anti-biotics only when absolutely necessary). We do the same with pork, buy by the 1/4 or 1/2, and we have a large freezer. I buy most veges from our farmer's markets. For oil, I buy coconut oil once per year, in a 5 gallon pail. Not only is it a very healthy oil for paleo/traditional foods/GAPS diets, but it's a great oil for long term storage. I don't buy any dehydrated meals because not only do they often have TVP, but almost all are loaded with gluten or other grains. I do buy powdered milk and powdered eggs but those are two things that I hope to never have to use, and plan to only use them in a long-term emergency. They do not get rotated. I buy our grains and such in bulk from Azure Standard. It's a co-op that serves the western US, up to about the Mississippi. I can buy most things organic through them, and I order monthly. I order our coconut oil from Wilderness Family Naturals. The shipping to me in Wisconsin is tiny, and the price is about equal to a really good Tropical Traditions sale.
  9. I've done it twice in mason jars. One time it was fine, the next it molded. last year I made 40 lbs of raw sauerkraut in fido jars. It's kept perfectly in my basement (walkout basement) for over a year, and still tastes amazing. Here's an article on different methods to make raw sauerkraut, and how they stack up to each other: http://www.nourishingtreasures.com/index.php/2012/07/03/sauerkraut-survivor-final-report/ I buy my fido jars from Crate & Barrel, and wait for an outlet sale. http://www.crateandbarrel.com/fido-jars-with-clamp-lids/f33489
  10. OK, here's another thing. A 'survival medicine prepper class' is going to be done by someone who feels they know what will happen if/when SHTF. I think it would be much more useful to take a class -- if you are going to take a class -- that is specifically geared to third-world medicine that is taught by people who actually work in 3rd world conditions and know exactly what situations can and will come up. There is a class offered by http://equipinternational.com/training-courses/missionary-medicine-intensive.htm Equip International and is specifically for people who will be working in 3rd world conditions who don't have access to medical care. Here's a blurb from their site: It is significantly more expensive than $300 -- it's actually $980 and it's a 2 week course. If I were going to pay for a survival medical class, that's the course I would do, not an 8 hour lecture that may or may not actually do much for you. It breaks down to less than $100/day. But honestly, I'd read books and get familiar with health care for my family before I ever spent money on a course. You will remember so much more if you have a solid background and understanding.
  11. Ah, but here is the thing. Your first thing to do is to look for shelter WHILE you are trying 911 on your cell. That's the correct choice, because you are trying to call for help but if your call doesn't go through, then you are at the same time looking for shelter. Here's the choices -- a) Choose a direction, and start jogging in hopes of finding civilization before the storm hits. b ) Stop. Build a big fire, and await rescuers. c) Start collecting rainwater because you may need it later, and see if you can find some food to warm you up. d) Start looking for some shelter from the rain, as you dial 911 on your cell phone. You don't want to do #3, because you need shelter and warmth. You con't want to do 1, because you are lost and 'picking a direction and jogging that way' can get you much more lost. So your options are #2 or #4. If we look at #2, building a big fire will not help you with the rain. If it's a downpour, it very well may go out, and being soaked next to a fire isn't going to help a whole lot anyways. And if you wait, it could be hours before you're noticed missing and then more time before a search party comes. That leaves us with #4. Start looking for shelter from the rain and dial 911. If you can't get 911 because you're too far out, at least you tried. You don't know if you're off grid unless you try. In the meantime, you're looking for shelter. #1 priority is staying dry. If you're dry, you're going to be warmer than if you were wet. Also, if you look at the answers that didn't have 'address injuries' first, they had 'find water' or 'find food' first, and those really aren't the top priorities in a survival situation. Top (other than triage the injuries) is shelter, then water. So if you look at it from that point of view, it makes sense. Oh, you probably want to know my credentials Lots of wilderness training, SAR in Arizona, cardiac (tele) RN, and former mod here in an old forum on survival skills.
  12. No, flint and steel you need good dry tinder to catch a spark, then have to blow on it and baby it to get a flame. A bic lighter you have a good strong flame already and can use substandard tinder (at least substandard in the sense that a spark wouldn't catch in it). Bic lighters are strong. The chances of them breaking in your pack are little. If you are cold and need a fire, it will be much easier to light a fire with a bic than to try to get a spark off flint and steel.
  13. #1 package beans & grains in mylar from my last order
  14. I scored 19/20. I'm curious as to which answers you don't agree with. I agreed with just about everything (obviously)
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