Jump to content
MrsSurvival Discussion Forums

Kygal

Users2
  • Posts

    1,076
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by Kygal

  1. I see you are from Kentucky, I am assuming anyway....so am I....just thought I would say HI

  2. Kygal

    DID YOU KNOW

    DID YOU KNOW that if you have a drawer that sticks, rub a candle on the runners. it will glide more smoothly.
  3. a good sized hacksaw. you can get many different blades for it, for both metal and wood.
  4. Quote: I rather liked you bouncy little guy, I'll miss him soon soon!
  5. Kygal

    DID YOU KNOW

    DID YOU KNOW - that if your car is over heating, turn on your heater and it opens up the heater core and draws heat away from you engine. of course, this will not work if you have NO coolant left in your car but most new cars will tell you when your coolant is low. for those of you who live in cold climates...coolant is the same as antifreeze.
  6. i suggest having a few different saws. you know, i will have to do another section on metal saws. i could even do another section on metal hammers, you know there are at least 250 different kinds of hammers and probably as many different saws. there are screwdriver shapes you have not even dreamed of! lol japanese saws are not the same as tenon saws, but there are similar ones. i think it is called a dozuki saw. i do not know much about japanese saws, but i would like to learn more, so maybe i will spend an hour or so today researching it online.
  7. could you post a pic of it? i cant even picture it in my head.
  8. Although power saws are now widely available, there is still a place for a range of handsaws in the tool kit of the do it yourself handywoman, the model-maker and professional carpenter. Sometimes the work site does not have electricity or a small job does not justify running an extension lead for the connection. At other times, the often better control of a handsaw makes its choice over a machine justified. The following describes some of the more common handsaws available to the do-it-yourself person. General Saw terminology Measuring teeth: The teeth on saws are classified by a number which represents the number of teeth points along 25.4mm (1 inch) of the cutting edge, including those at each end. The number is referred to as so many points, the point size is one greater than the teeth per inch (tpi). The teeth of ripsaws are relatively large, usually between four to seven points. The larger tenon saws, say 30 to 40cm (12 in to 16 in), usually have teeth of 12 to 14 points. Smaller saws for general bench work also may have 14 points, but the smaller saws intended purely for dovetailing may have teeth as fine as 22 or 24 points. Saws with fine teeth should be used only for fine work. The set of the teeth: Most saws have their teeth "set"; that is, the teeth are bent outwards slightly in alternate directions so that they make a cut slightly wider than the saw blade thickness, this gives a clearance so that the main part of the blade is clear of the sides of the cut. The set should not be excessive, as it will only mean that wood is being removed unnecessarily, resulting in increased resistance in cutting and more sweat. To reduce the necessity for the amount of set, some handsaw blades are taper ground, (that is the blade is ground thinner behind the teeth), thus providing additional clearance with only a small degree of set required. Saws used for green wood (i.e. freshly cut timber) have increased set as the sawdust from green timber is inclined to cling to the blade The front angle of the teeth: The front of the teeth on some saws are straight across at right angles to the blade, so they present the wood with a series of chisel-like edges, this tends to give a rough finish. Other saws have teeth bevel-filed at an angle instead of being at 90 deg., the idea being that the series of sharp corners severs the grain at each side, the waste wood between crumbling away as sawdust. The angle at which the teeth are bevelled vary from about 45 (for softwood) to 60 deg (for hardwood). The pitch angle of the teeth: The pitch angle of the teeth to the nominal root line of the teeth, associated with this is the point angle - the combination of these two angles determine the slope of the back of the teeth. A large number of modern handsaws have hardened teeth to prolong their useful life; these saws are, to an extent, 'throwaway' tools as they cannot be easily sharpened when they become blunt. ............................................................... HANDSAWS This general term includes several types, such as the rip, crosscut, and the panel saw. They all look basically the same and their purpose is the cutting of timber from boards, and sometimes making larger joints. Ripsaw: The ripsaw is intended to cut along the grain. The front of the teeth are generally at right angles to the blade and pitched at between 85 and 90 degrees to the blade. Some ripsaw have incremental teeth; this is where the teeth gradually becoming larger (lower point numbers) towards the handle. The theory being that the larger teeth come into operation at the strongest part of the stroke. Today the DIY person seldom uses the manual ripsaw as timber is available commercially in the widths required, or power circular saws are available. For the odd occasions when it is required to rip out timber, a cross- cut saw which, although not quite so satisfactory, is quite adequate. Lengths are taken along the run of the teeth from one end to the other, and are generally from 60 to 70cm (24 to 28 in). Crosscut saws: These differ from ripsaws in that the teeth are bevel-filed at an angle instead of being at 90 deg. Another way in which the crosscut saw teeth differ is that they are pitched so that the front of the tooth makes an angle of 75 to 80 deg. with the line of the teeth. Whatever the pitch, all teeth are pointed at 60 deg. The size of teeth varies from 6 to 12 points, and lengths of saw from 55 to 70cm (22-28 in). Panel saw: This is simply a small version of the crosscut saw, from 45 to 60cm (18 to 24 in), and with smaller teeth of 10-12 points. It is used for cutting thin wood and for the larger joints. Its teeth are pitched and bevelled as in the crosscut saw. A feature common to all handsaws is tension. Without it the saw blade would be a flabby thing with no natural stiffness. A tensioned saw remains stiff when waved sideways. Handsaws are available with either straight-back or skewback. The straight back tend to have rather stiffer blades, but there is little difference in their use. Flooring saw. These tend not to be found in the tool kit of most do-it-yourself(diy) people as it is somewhat of a specialist saw being used only to cut across floorboards so that they can be lifted. The edge is curved, enabling a cut to be made across a board at the centre of a joist. When the blade has penetrated, the straight part comes into use, the end of the saw being narrow enough to enable it to enter a short cut. Tenon saw. The technical name for saws that are stiffened along the back of the blade, is Back Saws although they are generally referred to as Tenon Saws. The length of blade can range from 20cm (8 in) up to 40cm (16 in), or even longer for special work. Teeth of Tenon Saws are usually pitched at 75 deg., and small ones are bevel sharpened at about 60 deg. because they have to cut across the grain as well as with it. When, however, a tenon saw is to be used solely for cutting tenons the teeth may be straight across at right angles because it always cuts along the grain and is therefore similar to a ripsaw. As most people cannot keep a saw specifically for cutting tenons, the teeth are generally bevel-sharpen. For fine work it is called a dovetail saw and may have very fine teeth-22 to 24 points. Larger Tenon Saws invariably have closed handles, smaller ones (dovetail saw) usually have a' fist grip' handle - middle size saws tend to have 'pistol grip' handles. Many blades - one handle. These have a number of interchangeable blades of which the largest is usually a pruning blade, and the others a compass blade, and a keyhole blade. The purpose of the last is obvious by its name, and the compass saw is used to cut curves on flat sheet, the purpose of the pruning blade is again obvious by its name. Padsaw. Also known as a keyhole saw. Although intended primarily for cutting the straight sides of a keyhole, it can be used for any internal cut, straight or curved. The blade is adjustable in its projection from the handle, the idea being to enable it to be given as little projection as is consistent with the required stroke. The saw necessarily relies upon the stiffness of the blade to prevent it from buckling, but buckling can easily happen because of the narrowness of the blade. The projection of the blade should always be kept to a minimum. Bow saw. The Bow Saw is considered by many to be the most satisfactory saw for cutting shapes since the narrow blade negotiates curves easily, and is held in tension. Both the handle and knob (at the other end of the blade) can be turned so that a cut can be made more or less parallel to the required cut. Obviously the blade must be free of twist when in use. It is available with blade lengths of 25 to 40 cm (10 to 16 in). Generally both hands grips the one handle, hence the bulbous shape with narrow neck, but when thick wood has to be sawn it is helpful to have a person at each side, both sides of the wood having been marked. In this way it is much easier to keep the cut square to the sides of the timber. The rivets holding the blade to the handle can be withdrawn so that the saw can be used for an internal cut, the blade being threaded through a hole drilled through the timber. Coping saw. The Coping Saw is used for thinner wood and for fairly tight curves or shapes. By turning the handle the tension of the blade can be slackened or increased. The blade can be revolved through any angle convenient for sawing. Normally it cuts on the pull stroke, but there are occasions when it is better to reverse the blade so that it cuts on the push. Log saw. The Log Saw is intended only for crosscutting logs, etc., and has a metal frame. The blade often has the lightning form of tooth shown and is fast cutting but leaves a ragged finish. This is unimportant for the purpose for which the saw is intended. Two-man crosscut. This saw is intended for sawing through large logs, and various pattern teeth are used. Each tooth pattern is claimed to have its own particular advantages, however this is often up to personal preference. Holes in the ends of the blade enable the handles to be fitted. Lengths can be from about 120 to 240 cm (4 ft up to 8 ft). Smaller versions of the saw used for the same purpose can be used by one person, but even these usually have rivet holes at the toe end of the blade so that a second handle can be fitted if necessary. These smaller saws tend to range from 90 to 110 cm (3 ft. to 4 ft. 6 in) long. Hints on using Handsaws. Use a Try Square or Sliding Bevel to mark the material for cutting. Remember that you will lose about 1/8-inch of wood with the cut due to the width of the blade, so cut on the outside of the line. Support both sides of the work on a bench or sawhorse. Take time to get comfortable before you start sawing. Make sure that the teeth of your saw are sharp. Dull teeth make more work and a less precise cut. Line up your wrist, elbow and shoulder with the saw blade. Start sawing with light, short strokes, supporting/guiding the blade with your thumb. Apply slight pressure on the push strokes and relax on the pulls. (the saw cuts on the push stroke, not the pull stroke, you know, same with kitchen knives, cut away from you! not towards) Saw with a steady, easy rhythm. Keep in mind that the more acute the cutting angle, the faster and rougher the cut. Hold the saw at a 90-degree angle for a quick, raw cut; 45 degrees for smooth cuts; and 15 to 20 degrees for very fine cuts. The saw will not jump if you keep the blade at a slight/low angle to the wood. For sawing strips of ply or board use a fine toothed saw. (for narrower materials, a minimum 2 teeth should be in contact with your material at all times) The operation could be made easier by slightly lifting the free end. To get a fine kerf (cut) with smooth edges on both sides of the material, place the object material on another board (help board) and let the saw cut down into the help board until you have cut off the waste. If the saw tends to stick put a thin wooden wedge into the cut to stop the timber closing on the saw blade. If the wood is wet or resinous rub candle or Bee's wax on the saw blade. When cutting shoulders/joints, as in a tenon, cut first along the grain, then across it. This stops the waste pieces breaking away before the cuts are complete. http://www.diydata.com/tool/handsaw/handsa...#flooring%20saw http://www.cromwell.co.uk/tooltips/saws
  9. lets start with hammers. its a basic enough tool that i am pretty sure all of you have. even if it is in the form of a meat mallet. lol Different types of Hammers A wide range of Hammers are available, varying in shape, size and weight. The different styles reflect different uses. Around the house, the average diy'er only really needs one or two type. The shape of Hammer heads has not changed much over the years although some modern materials are now used in both the head and handle. Traditionally handle were made of wood fixed through a hole in the head; this allowed the handle to be easily replaced if required. Modern hammers use modern materials and the handles are often built into the head - often with a form of built-in shock absorber to make them easier to use. Claw Hammer The most popular hammer for general work, available with a wooden (often hickory), glass-fibre or steel handle; with or without rubber grip. The most popular weights are 455-680g (16 to 24oz). The claw is normally curved, and incorporates a 'V' cut-out to draw nails from timber. The claw can be used to lever up floorboards or where other places where a lever is required; care must be taken (especially with cheaper models) as the force applied can easily weaken the joint between the handle and the head. Ball Pein Normally used by engineer's, the pein in this case, is rounded and is usually used for shaping metal and closing rivets. Ball pein hammers are available from 55 - 1100 (4 oz up to 2 lb.), 110 - 165g (8oz 12oz) are the most suitable for general use. Handles are normally wood, usually Ash or Hickory. Cross and Straight Pein Again, mainly used for shaping metal, the pein can be at right angles to the handle or parallel with it. The most useful domestically is the cross pein, where the pein can be used for starting panel pins and tacks. Handles are normally wood, usually Ash. Cross Pein Pin Hammer A lighter version of the Cross and Straight Pein hammer, ideal for light joinery and cabinet work. Weight 55g (4oz). Club Hammer Sometimes called a Lump Hammer, it has a double faced head, and is useful for light demolition work, driving steel chisels and masonry nails. As debris is likely to fly, the wearing of safety glasses and working gloves is recommended. Weight 1135g (2 1/2 lb) being best suited to domestic work. Handles are normally wood, usually Hickory, or synthetic resin. Sledge Hammer Used for the heavier jobs, such as driving in stakes or to break up concrete, stone or masonry. For lighter jobs just the weight of the head may be used for blow's, but for heavier work, the hammer is swung like an axe. Wear suitable protective clothing, including safety glasses. Weights 7, 10 and 14 lb. Joiner's Mallet Used to drive chisels or to tap wood joints together, where a metal-faced hammer would cause damage or bruising. Note that the head is slightly tapered to ensure correct contact with the work. Both the handle and head are wood, usually Beech or Lignum Vitae. Soft-faced Hammers Various types are available, with hard and soft rubber, plastic or copper faces. Some come with a choice of faces which are interchangeable. Useful for striking materials such as chrome wing outs, where a steel face would cause damage. In some cases, can replace a mallet for cabinet work. Special Hammers From here on, there are specialist hammers developed to meet the needs of various trades. These include a Brick Hammer for striking a bolster or splitting bricks; Woodcarving Mallet, with rounded body; Veneer Hammer, for pressing and tapping veneers into place; Upholsterer's hammer for driving tacks and nails in confined spaces, and Sprig Hammer, used by picture frame makers. Power Hammers More often referred to as 'powered nailers', these take the hard work out of fitting nails, staples etc. They are ideal where a large number of nails need to be fitted, such as fixing floorboards. They range from light duty (for use when fixing edge mouldings, picture frames etc) to heavy duty nailers, used to fix floorboards and garden decking etc. -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Advice for using hammers Always use the right hammer for the job, it will make the job easier and avoid possible damage to the hammer/workpiece. Never hit nails with the side of a check or a hammer head. The metal at these points is not hardened as the striking face and could be damaged. When assembling delicate work, use a piece of scrap wood between the work piece and the head of the hammer. This will prevent damage to the workpiece. Use a nail punch to sink nails into the timber, again this will prevent damage to the work piece. A nail punch has a flat end (or slightly, concave) to fit the nail head rather than the pointed end which other punches have. Where the handle is held in the hammer head by steel wedges, check regularly to ensure the wedges are tight. Timber handle can shrink in dry conditions. If a timber handle does start become loose, place the head in water overnight, the water will cause the handle to expand and tighten in the head. If a hammer tends to slip off nails, roughen the face of the head using a medium abrasive paper. Always wear safety glasses when driving masonry nails or breaking up concrete. edited to add the link to where i got the info (oops!) http://www.diydata.com/tool/hammer/hammers.htm
  10. Kygal

    DID YOU KNOW

    DID YOU KNOW... that you need to wash your dryers lint trap periodically if you use dryer sheets. dryer sheets leave a residue on the screen makeing it harder for moist air to be expelled. this results in longer drying time, and higher electric bills. i actually found out about this one in my email so i checked up on if it was true, and it is. http://www.snopes.com/inboxer/household/dryer.asp http://www.breakthechain.org/exclusives/linttrap.html http://www.truthorfiction.com/rumors/d/dryer-sheets.htm http://urbanlegends.about.com/library/bl_d...lint_filter.htm
  11. there is also a certain property in the duct tape adhesive that gets rid of warts. i have also used duct tape for shoe repair, hemming pants that ARE TOO LONG AND I AM EITHER TOO LAZY TO SET UP THE SEWING MACHINE, OR IT WAS BROKEN AT THE TIME opps, i hit the caps key by mistake window replacement (no kidding, i have one window in my van that is mainly tape) lol basically, if there is a hole, tape it! if there is a rip, tape it! if it is coming apart, tape it! it is a good idea to have many kids of tape, but duct tape rules!
  12. along with safety glasses (mine are SUPER dorky) i have ear plugs, the custom fitted kind i have ear muffs as well, and a 3M respirator with particulate filtres, (i was fit tested and certified by 3M) one of the most impoertant safety items we need is HAIR ELASTICS! the last thing you need is for your head to be sucked in by a fan belt, or power drill, pittsburg machine....nasty buisness that is. make sure gloves fit well, they can also get caught on things and sucked in, same with watches, and rings. make sure your clothing fits well and cant get caught in machinery/tools, make sure it is close fitting so sparks/slag from welding, or soldering can get in and burn you. oh my...there are SOOO many safety things you need to remember...any more anyone thinks of please post!
  13. Kygal

    DID YOU KNOW

    in keeping with the dryer tip... when you replace your dryer duct, make sure the duct is as straight as possible, any bend in the duct segnificantly reduces air flow.
  14. Kygal

    DID YOU KNOW

    this is a post where you can post little hints and tips, rules of thumb, things to remember etc about maining your house/property/tools/machinery that will save time money and effort down the road. i will start with a one. when you have fans on, bathroom fans, stove fans, any fans that suck indoor air out, you need to crack a window, or have someway for air to get back in or you create a negative pressure in the house causing moisture to sucked in through the walls. this was a major problem in a lot of leaky condos here in the lower mainland. my job was to go from condo to condo and running 6 inch pipe from out door to indoor so tht air can come in. i put a grille on the outside, and a plastic diffuser on the inside open jsut so enough air came in to equalize the pressure, but not enough to raise heating bills.
  15. i make mine with ground beef minced veggies (green pepper, onion, garlic, sometimes celery) grated carrot oregano, beef flavoured powder oats eggs flax seed chili powder and prego sauce to top it. i hate katchup.
  16. thats happened too me before too!
  17. i put in "pixie mrss" in google, and i got a post by buttercup, and a post by caveman. heh heh other than that, pixie is a popular name for bands, tons of other forums, and gaming. mrss is also an abreviation for othe things as well. there are weather pixies, and THE pixies. i am one in a billion i guess. heh he
  18. Kygal

    Recipes...!

    1 pack of bacon half an onion mushrooms green pepper 5 or 6 potatos 2 cups of corn hot water milk salt pepper rosemary i measure ingrediants so that it is very chunky soup, and i so that there is enough for 2 meals. i usually freeze half. the milk and water is a 1:1 ratio cube the potatos as large or small as you normally would, cook seprately from soup to add later. slice bacon into small pieces and fry with the onion and green pepper and mushrooms have the water and milk in a large pot i usually make 3 cups of water, with 3 cups milk when it is boiling add the corn(i use frozen and put it into the soup that way) and the bacon and the salt, peopper and rosemary to taste. add the potatos just before serving so they do not over cook. this is great with crusty bread.
  19. good idea! i had not even thought of that. thanks!
  20. i live in a small town anbd there are only 2 grocery stores. there is coopers, the one i use. i pay a little more there, but there is a good reason for that... most of the food at the other store is so cheaop because it is already expired....or close to. and there are the foods that i have never heard of and cant pronounce. like i saw one called halva the other day when i was in there. it looked scary... i went there to buy meat when we first moved here, and it was greenish grey.
  21. i wanna shop where you shop. there is no way in heck you can get SIX cans of tuna for that cheap in canada! i buy 4 kilos of the cheap sugar for 6.99 i bought 8kilos when it was on sale for 4.50.
  22. cool list! i will just have to adjust the things i do not eat on it. (i have never cooked a lentil in my life, and i dont plan to start now...)
  23. i know...but there are not enough letters to say what i wanna say. (i assumed that she is going by just "jo because sghe does not want everyone to know her full name?)is there a word for beautiful, lovely, smart, punny, kind, talented or awesome that starts with a j?or an o? "A," you're adorable, "B," you're so beautiful, "C," you're a cutie full of charms. "D," you're a darling and "E," you're exciting And "F," you're a feather in my arms. "G," you look good to me, "H," you're so heavenly, "I," you're the one I idolize. "J," we're like Jack and Jill, "K," you're so kissable, "L," is the lovelight in your eyes. "M," "N," "O," "P," I could go on all day. "Q," "R," "S," "T," alphabetically speaking, you're OK. U," made my life complete, "V," means you're very sweet, Double-"U" "X" "Y" "Zee." It's fun to wander through the alphabet with you To tell you what you mean to me. (repeat the chorus) http://www.niehs.nih.gov/kids/lyrics/alphlove.htm
  24. oh sure...i loose my internet connection for over a week, and that is when you decide to hug me!! hah hah now i have to chooooose..... well, first off,
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use.