Jump to content
MrsSurvival Discussion Forums

Making soap


Recommended Posts

Here is just one of many sites you can find about making soap at home.

 

http://ourworld.compuserve.com/homepages/paul_norman_3/soapmake.htm

 

EDITED TO ADD-

 

LINK IS BAD, as CompuServe shut down in 2009. But I found it again using the Wayback Machine... here's the new link:

 

http://web.archive.org/web/20070706043414/http://ourworld.compuserve.com/homepages/paul_norman_3/soapmake.htm

Link to comment
  • Replies 58
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Here are two recipes that one of my sisters has used.

 

Home made soap

 

1 can Lewis lye

1 qt. water

1 tsp. sugar

3 Tbsp. Borax powder

1/2 cup. cold water

1/4 cup. ammonia

5 lbs. (3qts.) fat.

 

Dissolve lye in 1 qt. water; let stand 1/2 hour. Dissolve sugar and Borax in cold water: add ammonia and pour slowly into lye water. Pour fat in lye mixture. Stir once in a while. When it thickens, pour into a 9 x 13 inch container lined with wax paper. Cut into bars when it is solid.

 

 

Another recipe.

 

Homemade Soap.

 

1 can lye

3 qts. cold water 4 1/2 lb. clear warm fat

1 cup Broax

 

Dissolve lye in cold water I a stainless steel or heavy plastic container. Add Borax: stir until clear or all is dissolved. Add to warm fat; stir with a wooden paddle or stainless steel spoon. (I stir mine whenever I think about it.) It will begin to set as it cools. When it can no longer be stirred, (usually overnight), wearing rubber gloves, break mixture up into granular soap. It can easily be packed into ice cream buckets. How much you need per wash load will be easy to see as you use it. (I dissolve mine in hot water, then put in the washer.)

 

Hope these help someone.

 

 

Link to comment
  • 2 years later...

Don't have coconut oil... try this recipe.

 

52 oz. olive oil

7 oz. lye

20 oz. cold water

 

Follow regular steps for making soap, but because the

recipe includes only liquid oils, the wrapped mold

must be checked twice a day. To do this, carefully

unwrap the mold and uncover the soap. You are likely

to notice a thin layer of oil on top. Using a wooden

spoon, carefully stir this layer of oil back into the

soap, then replace the lid and rewrap the mold. Repeat

this process once every 12 hours or so until the layer of oil no longer forms.

 

This soaps characteristics:

off white in color

mild

lathers quickly

plenty of medium size bubbles

 

source: The complete soapmaker

Link to comment
  • 1 month later...
Guest Guest

Goat Milk Soap

 

This is a wonderful quick recipe that is done by measurement not weight. I use an 8 cup class measuring cup to make this in and because I just don't have the time to stir and stir and stir to trace, I did go out and buy a stick blender (about $14.00)

 

The problem with milk based soaps is the milk will curdle if it isn't cold enough which is why it is frozen. It it is not cold enough, when the lye is added to the milk, the milk boils. If the soap turns yellow that is a natural Characteristic of the sugars in the milk that have cooked. Of course the trick is to get a white bar!

 

You can substitute any oil (see Oil Characteristics below recipe) for what you have on hand. Olive oil, canola oil, or combination of oils.

If you want to add fragrance it is done at trace as is any coloring (now you can use a piece of crayon for a quick color additive).

 

Vinegar Neutralizes Lye! always wear protective glasses, gloves, long sleeves, and cover your work area. Liquids can splash no matter how careful you are!

 

Goat Milk Soap

(by measurements, not weight)

1 cup lard, melted

1 cup coconut oil, melted - see below for other oils to use

1 cup goat (or other) milk (or water)

1/4 cup Red Devil lye granules (not flakes or crystals from other sources)

1/4 cup water

Dissolve the lye in the water.

Ingredients near 110 to 120 degrees F.

Add the lye/water to the fat. Stir in the milk.

Tracing time about 1 hour 15 minutes.

Leave in molds 2 days

Place in freezer 3 hours to help remove soap from molds

Remove soap from molds (or cut if in a large mold)

Age 3 weeks.

 

by Elaine C. White

 

easy mold.. shoe box lined with plastic bag, candy molds or? pie pans need to greased with lard cause the lye will cause a bad reaction.

 

Oil Characteristics

 

Almond-- gives fairly good lather and is good to condition the skin

Apricot kernel---same as almond

Borage--same as almond

Canola--same as almond

Castor oil--same as almond but speeds up trace

Cocoa butter--Gives a hard bar fairly good lather and is good for skin conditioning and speeds tace slightly

Coconut oil--Gives a hard bar, good cleansing qualities, fluffy lather, and speeds trace slightly

Corn oil--Same as almond

Cottonseed--Fairly good lather

Hazelnut--Fair lather and good skin conditioning properties

Hemp seed--same as hazelnut

Jojoba--same as hazelnut

Kukui nut--same as hazelnut

Lanolin--Give a hard bar that has fair lather is fair to good for skin conditioning if not allergic and speeds trace slightly

Lard--Gives a hard bar that has fairly good lather good for skin and speeds trace slightly

Macadamia nut--same as hazelnut

Neem oil--same as hazelnut with healing properties

Olive--same as hazelnut and gives a fairly hard bar

Palm Kernel--Give a hard bar with good cleansing properties, fluffy lather and speeds trace slightly

Palm oil--Give a hard bar with fair lather and speeds trace slightly

Peanut--fair lather with good skin conditioning

Safflower--same as hazelnut

Sesame--same as hazelnut

Shea butter--Gives a hard bar with fair lather and good skin

conditioning and speeds trace slightly

Soybean--same as hazelnut

Soybean (Crisco type)--fair lather and skin conditioning

Sunflower--same as hazelnut

Tallow--gives hard bar with fair lather and good skin conditioning and speeds trace slightly

Wheat germ--same as hazelnut

 

from goatworld.com

 

Link to comment
  • 5 weeks later...

Sorry for answering this so late, Slgrubbs! Yes, I did let it dry and cure for the time it called for, even longer. I shredded it and remelted it, putting in some lavender flowers and lavender oil. The soap itself is fine, it's just kind of slimy...

Link to comment

now lets say you put FO in your soap, do you really want that lavander scent on your dishes? really? don't you think lavander is better suited for clothing or mopping floors?

 

I know the next question... what is FO?

 

FO - Fragance Oil blended from non-organic as well as organic means to smell like a certain fragrance can not be consumed

EO - Essential Oil derived from a plant

 

You can always use dried herbs in your soap but do you really want to wash your dishes with it?

 

So perhaps it is just me that doesn't want my dishes smelling.

 

 

Link to comment
  • 7 months later...
Quote:
Don't have coconut oil... try this recipe.

52 oz. olive oil
7 oz. lye
20 oz. cold water


this recipe is lye heavy. Only 6.2 to 6.6 oz of lye should be used. I would drop the amount of liquid in it also to about 13 oz to help it cure out faster.

Lye heavy soap will dry out your skin and leave it 'slick' feeling. The soap crumbling is another sign of lye heavy soap.

I prefer soap recipes that are measured in weight, not volume. Unless you are using about 10 lb of oils, you really risk having a lye heavy soap with volume measurements.

I have plenty of soapmaking recipes (and directions) on one of my soap pages:

http://www.mullerslanefarm.com/soapmaking.html

Link to comment

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use.