Guest Guest Posted May 25, 2004 Share Posted May 25, 2004 (Part 1) **I keep losing my comnnection this morning, so I'll post what I have ready & more later.** I bought the newest Ball “Blue Book” recently and compared it to my “old” one, from 1994. I was glad to see no big changes in recommended techniques and processes. But if your “Blue Book” is older than that, please consider buying a new one, or look up current processing times on the internet, or ask here for the information. Most states have an “Cooperative Extension Office” for this kind of information. The “Blue Book” is generally under $8.00. I’m giving you the “short lesson” on canning, but when you set out to do it, have a current book on canning, like the Ball Blue Book, handy. Don’t risk your family’s health on a preventable mistake. Canning foods interrupts the normal spoiling process of foods. Using the two-piece vacuum sealing caps, heat destroys microorganisms and at the same time drives out air. When the jar cools, the lid seals onto the jar and prevents microorganisms from entering and contaminating the food. A perfect seal is required for this, so never reuse lids, only the screw bands which hold the lids until sealing. The method of canning is determined by the amount of acid in the foods. Water bath canning may be used for “high acid” foods including most fruits, pickles, and tomatoes (if properly prepared with added acid). Pressure canning must be used for “low acid” foods, which include vegetables and meats, and combinations which may contain a mixture of low & high acid foods (soups, for example). THE CANNER: You may use a pressure canner for water-bath canning (by not using the pressure features), but you can not make a pressure canner out of a water bath canner. A water bath canner needs to have a rack to hold the jars off the bottom of the canner, plus have one to two inches of water *over* the tops of the lids. The water needs to completely surround the jars, and the boiling water remains at 212 degrees F (heavy boil) for the entire time recommended for that food & jar size. Keep the lid on while canning to keep everything hot & boiling. The same times apply whether you have one jar inside or a full canner. So you *could* use a regular large pan with a lid and a small rack inside, if you are careful and do it according to directions. There are two kinds of pressure canners - one has a dial gauge which should be tested every year (Blue Book recommendation). You get the pressure up to the needed pressure, close a vent, regulate the temperature, and then keep an eye on the gauge to be sure it stays in the safe range until the canning process is finished. Dial gauges may be checked by your local County Extension Office. The other type is a weighted gauge canner which uses a weight to regulate the pressure. I have one with three different settings on the weight. You get the water hot enough to emit steam for 10 minutes, then place the weight on. The weight “jiggles” to allow a bit of the pressure out, regulated by the temperature of the stove. You have to learn to time the “jiggles” of the weight, several per minute, according to the manufacturer’s instructions. If the weight is damaged you must replace it, but otherwise it’s good for years. With both canners you need to keep the rubber gasket in good condition, or replace it. Before canning, make sure the vent is cleared by drawing a string through it (a plugged vent will cause your canner to blow up!) and make sure the safety valve is good. If you live at higher altitudes, you must adjust your canning accordingly. Ask your County Extension Office for specific instructions. Follow the directions for your own canner. Many times you can look on the internet and find the manufacturer’s website and find downloadable information about using your canner. Or ask… chances are someone here has a canner like yours. (more later...) Quote Link to comment
HapyGirl Posted May 28, 2004 Share Posted May 28, 2004 Thanks Cat! I am going to try to use my pressure canner this summer for the first time. I bought all the supplies in 99, but my old stove turned out not to be safe for canning since it was a smooth top range. Here I have an "old fashioned" electric stove so I can finally learn to can! Quote Link to comment
renee Posted May 31, 2004 Share Posted May 31, 2004 please tell me after me readign this post that i can ...can...i have a brand new smooth surface stove and finally have all the stuff to can...if i cant can i am in deep trouble as i am on SSI and cant afford to get a new stove just to get a grill one to can. the one i have came with the house. oh gosh....in total panick...and livin g off of 139.00 in food stamps for two ppl a month and need to leanr to can fast. hugs teri aka little pixey Quote Link to comment
Guest Guest Posted May 31, 2004 Share Posted May 31, 2004 Oh, my, I'm not sure I can tell you it's ok. Find the name and manufacturer of your stove and check online for a website. Or call a number in the instruction booklet. You'll have to ask *them*. I've heard that some have worked, but *especially if it's not yours*, you shouldn't take the chance on breaking it & having to replace it. Do you have a friend you could work with for both of you to can, using her stove? Or a church with a kitchen who would let you use theirs? Quote Link to comment
Guest Guest Posted June 1, 2004 Share Posted June 1, 2004 seems it is a toss up! I would contact the manufacture of your stove and ask them, just to be sure. Here is some responses I found.. http://www.weblife.org/forum/messages/14/113.html http://www.wireboard.com/~jleitess/country...f1eb73cf13e.htm this link says no because their waterbath canner doesn't hae a flat bottom...hummmm if your pressure canner is a flat bottom??? why not? http://www.kitchenkrafts.com/product.asp?product=fp0175 Quote Link to comment
Becca_Anne Posted June 4, 2004 Share Posted June 4, 2004 My stove is a ceramic flat top and I have used it successfully. I think the issue is if the canner you're using is flat on the bottom or if it has a curvature. With these types of stoves, it must be flat. The canner won't get hot enough if it's a curvature. I have a waterbath and a pressure canner. The house we're renting has a regular stove so I won't have to worry about that this summer. ( I sure miss MY stove!) mommafitz Quote Link to comment
pfoster Posted June 21, 2004 Share Posted June 21, 2004 I too, have the ceramic flat top stove, my pressure canner works fine on it. No problems at all. Quote Link to comment
Guest Guest Posted June 22, 2004 Share Posted June 22, 2004 Littlepixie, if you decide that you can't use the stove, a possible solution: Check on line with Harbor Freight, they have small one and two burner gas hot plates at a fairly low price (under$30 I think) this could be a soultion for your problem. Any way the best of luck, we've found canning can be a real help. Quote Link to comment
HapyGirl Posted June 22, 2004 Share Posted June 22, 2004 I think my manual for the stove said something about the heat not being constant enough since it cycles on and off. However the odds are each stove is different. A hot plate would definately be a good alternative! Quote Link to comment
logcabinmama Posted July 31, 2004 Share Posted July 31, 2004 I know my sister has a flat top stove and she has canned a LOT of things on it. Maybe it depends on what kind of stove it is. Ok, now I have a question for all of you out there. Have any of you canned anything in 2 quart jars??? I bought a doz. of them and want to can meat in some of them, but the 'Ball' book does NOT say anything about canning in 2 quarts. I've looked and looked. My canner is a large one, I can can 19 pints in it, double layered. So putting in a few of the 2 quart jars would be no problem, it is just how long do I pressure them. I don't think I would need to pressure them for 2 hours. That would be a LONG TIME. Any way, any one have any ideas at all????? Quote Link to comment
Wheeler Posted July 31, 2004 Share Posted July 31, 2004 I would be afraid to try canning meat in that size jar Snowmom. Maybe you could can tomatoes in them or use them as canisters on your kitchen counter...or in a cabinet for storage of grits, flour, even spaghetti, macaroni or some colorful item. Wouldn't that be pretty? This doesn't answer your canning question though, does it? I looked everywhere and didn't find anything about canning in 1/2 gallon jars. I believe that Ball Blue Book would have some recipes if they considered it safe to can in this size jars.... ~just my thoughts Quote Link to comment
Guest Guest Posted July 31, 2004 Share Posted July 31, 2004 The kind of things you can can in a 2 qt or 1/2 gallon jar is fruit juices. Here is the problem, due to the size of the jar, it is felt that canning anything with density will not get hot enough in the center to destroy bacteria. I have a couple boxes of 1/2 gallon jars that I love and use for goat milk as I prefer my mil stored in glass. Great size for piclkles. Quote Link to comment
Guest Guest Posted July 31, 2004 Share Posted July 31, 2004 Exactly right, Westbrook! I imagine the "Blue Book" assumes most people don't have access to the half-gallon jars anymore, so they stopped including info on them. Wish I lived closer to you, Snow; I'd love to have those jars for dry storage!!! Quote Link to comment
Wheeler Posted July 31, 2004 Share Posted July 31, 2004 While operating a convenience store we used to sell dill pickles, pigs feet, hot sausages, pickled eggs and other things that were sealed in glass gallon jars... so, naturally, I brought a lot of them home. I use them to store flour, rice, grits, corn meal, sugar, etc. in and I have really been pleased with them. After putting this 'stuff' in a jar, adding a couple of Bay leaves, putting lid on after I've made a small hole in the center, put a tab on, I take my trusty "Pump N Seal" and pump the air out and the little tab seals it until I need something from that jar. This has worked really well for me but my children think I'm crazy!!! Quote Link to comment
Guest Guest Posted September 6, 2004 Share Posted September 6, 2004 My husband sells appliances. He said that you can't can on a flat-topped stove because they weren't designed to take that kind of high heat for the extended period of time that canning requires. They shatter. I wouldn't risk it, as it could be dangerous, and not to mention you'd have to replace your stove. Now maybe there are some brands that say different, I don't know. Quote Link to comment
Guest Guest Posted June 5, 2006 Share Posted June 5, 2006 http://www.backwoodshome.com/articles/clay53.html Quote Link to comment
Guest Guest Posted June 5, 2006 Share Posted June 5, 2006 Home Canning: Jars and Lids1 United States Department Of Agriculture, Extension Service2 Food may be canned in glass jars or metal containers. Metal containers can be used only once. They require special sealing equipment and are much more costly than jars. Regular and wide-mouth Mason-type, threaded, home-canning jars with self-sealing lids are the best choice ( Plate 1 ). They are available in 1/2 pint, pint, 1-1/2 pint, quart, and 1/2 gallon sizes. The standard jar mouth opening is about 2-3/8 inches. Wide-mouth jars have openings of about 3 inches, making them more easily filled and emptied. Half-gallon jars may be used for canning very acid juices. Regular-mouth decorator jelly jars are available in 8 and 12 ounce sizes. With careful use and handling, Mason jars may be reused many times, requiring only new lids each time. When jars and lids are used properly, jar seals and vacuums are excellent and jar breakage is rare. Most commercial pint- and quart-size mayonnaise or salad dressing jars may be used with new two-piece lids for canning acid foods. However, you should expect more seal failures and jar breakage. These jars have a narrower sealing surface and are tempered less than Mason jars, and may be weakened by repeated contact with metal spoons or knives used in dispensing mayonnaise or salad dressing. Seemingly insignificant scratches in glass may cause cracking and breakage while processing jars in a canner. Mayonnaise-type jars are not recommended for use with foods to be processed in a pressure canner because of excessive jar breakage. Other commercial jars with mouths that cannot be sealed with two-piece canning lids are not recommended for use in canning any food at home. JAR CLEANING Before every use, wash empty jars in hot water with detergent and rinse well by hand, or wash in a dishwasher. Unrinsed detergents may cause unnatural flavors and colors. These washing methods do not sterilize jars. Scale or hard-water films on jars are easily removed by soaking jars several hours in a solution containing 1 cup of vinegar (5 percent acidity) per gallon of water. STERILIZATION OF EMPTY JARS All jams, jellies, and pickled products processed less than 10 minutes should be filled into sterile empty jars. To sterilize empty jars, put them right side up on the rack in a boiling-water canner. Fill the canner and jars with hot (not boiling) water to 1 inch above the tops of the jars. Boil 10 minutes at altitudes of less than 1,000 ft. At higher elevations, boil 1 additional minute for each additional 1,000 ft. elevation. Remove and drain hot sterilized jars one at a time. Save the hot water for processing filled jars. Fill jars with food, add lids, and tighten screw bands. Empty jars used for vegetables, meats, and fruits to be processed in a pressure canner need not be presterilized. It is also unnecessary to presterilize jars for fruits, tomatoes, and pickled or fermented foods that will be processed 10 minutes or longer in a boiling-water canner. LID SELECTION, PREPARATION, AND USE The common self-sealing lid consists of a flat metal lid held in place by a metal screw band during processing ( Plate 2 ). The flat lid is crimped around its bottom edge to form a trough, which is filled with a colored gasket compound. When jars are processed, the lid gasket softens and flows slightly to cover the jar-sealing surface, yet allows air to escape from the jar. The gasket then forms an airtight seal as the jar cools. Gaskets in unused lids work well for at least 5 years from date of manufacture. The gasket compound in older unused lids may fail to seal on jars. Buy only the quantity of lids you will use in a year To ensure a good seal, carefully follow the manufacturer's directions in preparing lids for use. Examine all metal lids carefully. Do not use old, dented, or deformed lids, or lids with gaps or other defects in the sealing gasket. After filling jars with food, release air bubbles by inserting a flat plastic (not metal) spatula between the food and the jar. Slowly turn the jar and move the spatula up and down to allow air bubbles to escape. Adjust the headspace and then clean the jar rim (sealing surface) with a dampened paper towel. Place the lid, gasket down, onto the cleaned jar-sealing surface. Uncleaned jar-sealing surfaces may cause seal failures ( Plate 3 ). Then fit the metal screw band over the flat lid. Follow the manufacturer's guidelines enclosed with or on the box for tightening the jar lids properly. Do not retighten lids after processing jars. As jars cool, the contents in the jar contract, pulling the self-sealing lid firmly against the jar to form a high vacuum. * If rings are too loose, liquid may escape from jars during processing, and seals may fail. * If rings are too tight, air cannot vent during processing, and food will discolor during storage. Overtightening also may cause lids to buckle and jars to break, especially with raw-packed, pressure-processed food. Screw bands are not needed on stored jars. They can be removed easily after jars are cooled. When removed, washed, dried, and stored in a dry area, screw bands may be used many times. If left on stored jars, they become difficult to remove, often rust, and may not work properly again. http://groups.msn.com/FrugalFoodStorage/...450746385388545 Quote Link to comment
Guest Guest Posted June 5, 2006 Share Posted June 5, 2006 http://frugalliving.about.com/cs/canningfoods/a/082900.htm also... Canning at Different Altitudes Processing times and weight adjustments Most, if not all directions for processing times are given for altitudes of less than 1,000 feet above sea level for a boiling water bath, and less than 2,000 feet for a pressure canner. The first order of business is to find out what your altitude is. Call the surveyor's office or the US Soil Conservation Service or the local extension office in your area if you don't know. For boiling water baths the rule is to add 1 minute for each 1,000 feet above sea level when the processing time is under 20 minutes. Add 2 minutes for each 1,000 feet above sea level when processing time is over 20 minutes. To adjust the processing pressure for pressure canner at higher altitudes, use the following table. Less than 2,000 feet 10 pounds 2,000 to 3,000 feet 11 and 1/2 pounds 3,000 to 4,000 feet 12 pounds 4,000 to 5,000 feet 12 and 1/2 pounds 5,000 to 6,000 feet 13 pounds 6,000 to 7,000 feet 13 and 1/2 pounds 7,000 to 8,000 feet 14 pounds 8,000 to 9,000 feet 14 and 1/2 pounds 9,000 to 10,000 feet 15 pounds Another rule of thumb, if you don't have a pressure cooker or guage that will allow for such precise adjustments is that at altitudes of 2,000 feet or higher, use 10 pounds of pressure if recipe calls for 5 pounds; use 15 pounds of pressure if recipe calls for 10 pounds and increase cooking time by a couple of minutes. Quote Link to comment
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