Sarah

A reminder... The ICSArchive took over our 'paperback book' section a few years ago. If you do not remember it, there is a verified public domain cookbook collection, most in the late 1800s to early 1900s. Let me do a quick dig for the url... http://www.icsarchive.org/icsarchive-org/paperback/cookbooks/ Wave when you visit, the Archivist is a 'goodun'. Sarah

I hate those, always breaking the floss. Perhaps this will help. If you have something like an 'Ace Hardware', there there is a knickknack cookie jar display near the counter. One has two Swiss-army-knife toothpicks in a small leatherette case. They will hold the 'Glide' brand floss picks, and several of our ladies keep them in the change purse. In my case I have as backup a very old Swiss that I have replaced the pick in several times. The menfolk get a tiny pipecleaner-like pick in a sleeved holder from one of the advertising knickknack sites. The good sites will let you buy single unprinted demos. Sarah

Got apple bake pans? You know, you core the apple and put in pan, on spike, and bake.. Try coring apple sized cabbage from bottom, not all the way through like an apple, generous dollup of butter and bake. With electric oven, you might have to add some water. Done right, they are great.

Chipped edge, dirty tube, weight our of balance (seriously! Casting fault.), dirty weight. I think you see where this is going. The low pressure not working while jiggling at higher is the clue. Also, if you have a black rubbery safety plug, could be it also, as it is leaking until moisture/pressure is great enough to seal it.

You might want to do a bit more research. Depending on the type of 'cherry' tomatoes, you may want to steam peel first, those skins can be tough, you can end up with 'raisins'. Or, depending on the type, a quick dip blanching, to 'de-wax'.

That is the idea, but mine will have slip in partitions. And some sort of handles. That project has been put off. It is Fair Season, and I am much too busy enforcing the rules, judging, (and mediating!) But I got to take my man out to eat, and we got to laugh at the English antics at the 'demolition derby'. Sarah

I know, resurrecting an old thread, but I got a PM on this, requesting source for empty, ready to fill HP 950/951 carts. eBay, Amazon, Jet, and others. ALL OVER. Depending on where you shop you can get some good deals, and bad. In this case, price for the empty rechipped carts is $33, on eBay, a 'fair' price. Bulk ink? Same locations. In this case, make sure it is 'pigment', not 'dye' ink, not 'universal'. And get that 'side port' adapter for the syringe, about $3, makes these carts much easier to fill, and not so rough on the rubber seals from using syringes.

I suspect you got a 'bad batch' of batteries. I see that from time to time. The voltage is good, but the amp-hour is not. I have seen some 'brand name' go 'flat'. That includes the 'copper top's. We go through a lot of batteries with our EAC (Emergency Action Center) equipment. Frankly is not worth it to buy the 'brands' any more for standard or alkaline. Family Dollar 24 count AA for $5 do just as well. Ni-cads we zap and recharge.

Several goodies here. Thank you! The lost link was to plans, with the lumber dimensions, for the different size jars, with hard partitions. I will keep looking and if I recover the link, I will pass it on. I thought I had made a special note of it, the url I mean. If not, I am thinking of making a 'universal' set of plans, using shims (http://www.homedepot.com/p/Nelson-Wood-Shims-8-in-Homeowner-Pine-Shims-12-Piece-per-Bundle-10011703/301757723) for partitioning. They would be smaller than what I saw, due to weight, say four galleon jar size, with partitions allowing for secure smaller jars. The sides of the totes would be slotted to slide the shims in, one from each side, for a locking effect. Much more sturdy than cardboard. Or paint stir sticks, the long ones for five galleon buckets. (http://www.homedepot.com/p/5-gal-Paint-Stick-3-Pack-PS5G-3/206871624) The search continues!

The breeders that are pelt growers will gas them with carbon monoxide. I would think that would 'taint' the meat. I would be interested in your methods, Possum.

News to me. Thank you. Yes, pricey, but... I am wondering if they work like the ladybugs. Do they return, or do they have to be repopulated every year?

Yes. The reason for this is that a lot of 'essential oils' are really oils, and do not mix well with water. Some, such as the lemon grass EO, will mix with witchhazel. Otherwise, try an alcohol Whatever the carrier, shake it good. EO, pronounced eee-ooh, is how we say 'essential oil'. Also, you can use 'citroena' essential oil (note the different spelling)(think of the bug repellent candles)(same active ingredient, but alcohol is the carrier.) Personally, I do not care for the smell.

I lost a link and I am thinking somebody here might have it. From pallet wood, canning jar totes. 3 x 4 jars, i.e. twelve jars per tote. The link had the lumber dimensions for each jar size. Right now we are using squared galvanized trays. We have some pallets coming in, remembered the link, know I need more totes; but can not find the link/url. Anybody? Sarah

Or lemon grass essential oil, twenty drops in a quarter cup of witchhazel. For swine, excellent, good results with goats. Seems to work good for us humans too, especially with the black midges. For sensitive folks, make 1 inch square pin on sachets, cotton and cotton quilt stuffing, and drop spray them. Wear the sachet.

The business must have a land line, regardless of machines. State law here.

Have you looked at PhotoSort? I think there is a demo/trial version. photosort.net. I am sure there are others, but that is what we use to detect duplicates in our digitization work.

No, not the generic refilled (which you can do yourself). I mean the empty reloadable carts or a CIS. Sorry if I was not clear. Sarah

Umm... Have you looked into the reloadable carts or a CIS? No ink in them when bought, and you fill them at your atmospheric pressure. No pressurization in shipment. I admit I am spoiled in this, as we make our own specialty inks (MICR). I get 'sticker shock' every time I look at standard carts, and what people are paying. Last bulk of 'standard' ink, enough for six full refills, was under $30. The refill carts were under $30 too. Milk works with most 'pigment' inks, like the majority of our HP brand printers, but not the dye inks (like our Brother brand printers). I never found a good cleaner for those, best I have found is repeated lye washings with blueing. As to the other things in this list, more 'sticker shock' for me. Sarah (memo to self, price out the Celestial Seasonings teas in bulk vs box)

In Virginia, a library must have a notary on shift at all times. Yes, I am. Virginia also had, for a short time, the 'electronic' notary. Finally struck from the law, it was a get-more-money by the commonwealth.

I hope you have. The 'dawn' version is one I knew, but did not do well with. The trick is getting the babies also. The borax supposedly will do that, and I found no dissension in my web searches. The 'buzz'ers are normally the males, who are on guard, but have no stinger. But the female does, but will try to not use it. In past times, the kinder would take rackets and 'volley'. Another tip, some folks say they will not use treated lumber, latex painted, or oil painted. All false. But I have noted that they have not touched any of the milk painted woodwork. Sarah

Got alerts this time, Mt_Rider.

Another tip came my way, after posting the boxax vs ants kill. We have carpenter bees. While I love bees, and these are good pollinators, the damage they do to the wood structures is unacceptable. Plus I think that the carpenter bees territorial aspects keep the honey bees at bay, and I like them more. There is/was a product, home made, called 'bee butter'. It uses a repellent, I think is named Pymethrine, mixed with petroleum jelly, about 4% ratio. It has great knock down, but must be syringe squirted into the carved channels and entrances, which are often quite high, and difficult to get to. And I do not like the long term toxicity. Use the ant kill, but six tablespoons of borax instead of three, and put in pump sprayer. Shake well, keep shaking. Wear gloves. Soak the wood, paying special attention to the channels and entrances. They come out of the nests, and drop. Plop Plop Buzz Buzz Stomp Stomp. But not getting them all.

Hmm... No email received that there was an update. Yesterday and today. glitch? Agreed, Mt_Rider. I also suspect that the original was too limited. The end of that linked page said another was under development for -multiple- strains. Out_of_the_ordinary. Same for the LDA treatments. Would such address the correct strain? Can we identify the correct strain given the difficulty we are still having in the identification / detection of the disease? Could it even work? An allergy treatment for a disease? Well, it is said that the start of wisdom is saying, "I do not know". Sarah.

https://www.historyofvaccines.org/content/articles/history-lyme-disease-vaccine

I am working through the update to the CountrySide and Small Stock Journal iLL ATOCI. 101/02/32. (2017 March/April). "A very effective Lyme disease vaccine was invented in the late 1900s, but is no longer available. The vaccine manufacturer discontinued production in 2002, stating slow sales because of low consumer demand. The protection provided by this vaccine worked similar to the tetanus vaccine, which diminishes over time and must be administered every 10 years." Anyone know who was the manufacturer? Anything? Sarah